A Travellerspoint blog

March 2013

MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY 2nd visit


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Surprise! We are sailing back into Montevideo after a day at sea, actually just off the coast.

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We walked from the ship to the Plaza Constitucion

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The Cathedral Matriz on the Plaza.

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Vendors were setting up their wares in the parks and pedestrian streets - their specialty is antiques in this area.

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Walking farther into the city there is what remains of the city gate and it leads to the Plaza Independencia and the statue and tomb of General Artigas.

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This is the Gaucho Museum - formerly the home of a wealthy politician, and one of the oldest houses in the city.

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The beautiful house has impressive displays honoring the Uruguayan folk hero, the Gaucho.

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Walking back to the ship we encountered a fellow American - singing for tips in his adopted country.

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And - the lure of all that meat grilling on the open fires got to us - lunch in the Mercado. Sweet.

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L'amitie.

Posted by Swenigale 11:06 Archived in Uruguay

SANTOS, BRAZIL day 1

sunny 95 °F

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Ah – Brazil at last! We have sailed miles and miles along the coast of Brazil, skipping two scheduled ports due to weather and we arrived today (1/2 day early) in Latin America’s largest seaport, Santos.

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We sailed far into the Estuario des Santos, with car and people ferries crisscrossing the river continuously.

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Santos was once the world’s largest exporter of coffee, at one time with 80% of the world’s coffee market.

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Boats of all kinds moved about us.

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Believe it or not, four of us decided to walk from the port on our own.

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Maybe not the best idea -

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We were headed toward the old city, the sun was strong and it was well over 90 degrees!

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We finally opted for a taxi when someone (maybe an angel) in halting, Portuguese/English warned us of “burglars”!

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The Caso do Café – fittingly, the Coffee Museum.

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Our taxi driver brought us back to the port area – we just had to cross the road and the train tracks and go into the terminal. Adventure complete.

Posted by Swenigale 16:41 Archived in Brazil

SANTOS, BRAZIL day 2

sunny 90 °F
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You know you must be in Brazil - when they have to spell it out: No wearing a bikini in the mall!

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But on the beach - of course.

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Santos has perhaps the longest beach front garden in the world, and endless beach to go with it.

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So - we watched what we thought was beach volleyball but it seems to be a hybrid - this server turned his back to the net and kicked with his heel! Returns were played like soccer - i.e. no hands allowed. Well, Santos is proud to be the home of soccer star Pele, so I guess that fits!

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School is back in session so no crowded beach on this weekday.

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A small Aquarium is located near the beach walk.

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This spotted eel is smaller than it looks!

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This way to the..Penguins.

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We hummed the music from "Chariots of Fire" - it seemed fitting!

Posted by Swenigale 15:21 Archived in Brazil

PARATY, BRAZIL

sunny 90 °F
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Oh, a wonderful, sunny day! We anchored in the Bay of Paraty and a 45 minute Tender ride brought us into this Brazilian town of 16,000 inhabitants which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

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The town developed when gold was discovered in 1696 in the mountains of Minas Gerais. It became almost deserted when the gold rush ended. The beautiful colonial buildings were therefore preserved, and it is now a wonderful vacation spot and haven for artists.

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The old town is a draw, but most vacationers also try out the more than 200 secluded beaches that surround the bay and take adventure trips up into the surrounding jungle.

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Our guide this morning, Louis, brought us into the hills and rainforest above Paraty to show us the beauty of three different waterfalls.

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The Pedra Branca Waterfall

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Does this remind our New England friends of Swift River (near the Kancamagus) in New Hampshire?

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One of the more unique features of this town - the low sea walls have gaps built into them so that twice a day, as the tide rises, the streets are flooded in some sections of town (usually to about 6 inches) and then are washed by the receding waters.

Posted by Swenigale 15:11 Archived in Brazil

ILHA GRANDE, BRAZIL

sunny 88 °F
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Yesterday's Rainbow in Paraty Bay

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Ilha Grande is a beautiful, unspoiled island off the coast of Brazil. For almost a century it was a prison island and before that it was a pirates' hideout. Our ship was anchored in the bay.

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We got an early start in a water taxi - destination the Blue Lagoon - passing our ship's tender.

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The island attracts sun worshipers with its 106 beaches, but it is also "the number one prize-winning stretch of Atlantic coastal rainforest" in Brazil, so ecotourism has taken off.

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This is where the water taxi anchored and we snorkeled. There were so many fish that it felt like we were swimming in an aquarium.

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On the way back our boat captain pulled close to shore to pick and eat the fruit of some kind of cactus. He didn't speak English and we don't speak Portuguese, so we may never know what it was.

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There are almost no roads or cars on the island, so transportation belongs to the sailors. These are places I never have pictured when I have thought of Brazil!

Posted by Swenigale 12:26 Archived in Brazil

BÚZIOS, BRAZIL

sunny 86 °F
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I’m thinking the tourism people of Búzios would love to keep these vultures away from the harbor! After all, Búzios is another one of Brazil’s lovely vacation getaways.

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Water Taxis are definitely the way to go when roads are few and temperatures are steamy!

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We enjoyed a swim at a lovely beach.

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We were at the beach early in the morning – before the large boats with loud sound systems came to anchor.

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A quick visit from a feathered friend – the tourism people probably like this bird.

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Brigitte Bardot vacationed here from nearby Rio de Janeiro back in 1964 when Búzios was a lovely but undiscovered fishing village.

Posted by Swenigale 10:36 Archived in Brazil

RIO DE JANIERO, BRAZIL - Day 1

sunny 88 °F
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Morning mists will clear later today. We had an early arrival in this spectacular port city. Sugar Loaf Mountain is on the right and in the distance is Corcovado Mountain, with the statue of Christ the Redeemer on top.

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Of course, undaunted and possibly unimpressed by the beauty of their home, life goes on for the over 6 million inhabitants.

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We visited Rio in 2010 on the Serenity, so there are a few more of our pictures of this incredible city posted there.

LINK: http://worldcruise2010.travellerspoint.com/

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Copacabana - one of the most famous beaches in the world

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Possibly the largest art deco statue in the world, the Christ the Redeemer statue is 130 feet tall, atop 2,300 foot Corcovado Mountain.

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This is a quote: Most of Rio lies on a geological structure called Brazilian Crystal Basement.The structure had many tectonic alterations, which resulted in the several elevations, hills, mountains and valleys which characterize the coastal line of Rio.

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Frigate birds in formation

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The patterned sidewalks made of black and white stones are just like the ones in Lisbon and are protected by law (or so I've read).

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The New Cathedral - located not too far from the ship's dock

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Big doings and major alterations are afoot for this already vibrant city, since they will be hosting the 2016 Olympic Games and next year's World Soccer Cup.

Posted by Swenigale 12:11 Archived in Brazil

RIO DE JANIERO, BRAZIL - Day 2 & 3

sunny 90 °F
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Our 2nd day in Rio is undocumented pictorially because we took a cab to the beach at Ipanema, traveling light so we could swim in the surf! This is the morning of the 3rd day, which is also the start of the 4th and final segment of the World Cruise.

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The city centers of Rio are surrounded by neighborhoods called Favelas that stretch up the hillsides and into the valleys.

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In this group of Favelas, called the Complexo do Alemão, the city has recently installed a state of the art cable car system with 6 stops.

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We rode the cable car up and back, giving us a bird’s eye view of the incredible array of buildings.

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Back on the main roads traffic moved at a snail’s pace. “Welcome to Rio”, said our driver as we passed a bus driver reading a newspaper (this was on a main highway, mind you!), motorcycles weaving in and out of the crawling traffic and entrepreneurs selling candy and water to the drivers in their cars. We eventually arrived at our final destination, San Sebastian Metropolitan Cathedral.

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There is no bad angle from which to view the fantastical landscape of Rio de Janeiro!

Posted by Swenigale 11:26 Archived in Brazil

SALVADOR da BAHIA, BRAZIL

sunny 90 °F
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Here we are in the largest city on the Northeast coast of Brazil, with a population of almost 7 million. (I am continually amazed by my ignorance about the countries of South America!) This is the Bonfim Basilica, just one of the 165 churches in the city.

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Miracles are reported to have occurred in Bonfim Church. Prayers for healing and thanks for healing are often accompanied by pictures of people and apparently, representative plastic body parts.

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Salvador was once the center of Brazil’s slave trade (Brazil had more African slaves than the United States), and African faith beliefs have become syncretized with Roman Catholicism so there are local names for many more gods. The ribbons tied to this fence each have three knots that represent wishes – the belief is that you make a wish as you tie each knot and then leave it tied on your wrist until the bracelet falls off, that is , if you want it to work!

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The Lower City and the harbor are viewed here from the Upper City.

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The city became extremely wealthy because of the sugar and slave trades. It was settled by the Portuguese in 1549 and is now known for its Afro-Brazilian culture.

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The church of St. Francis from 1597, where gold seems to cover every surface

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Next to St. Francis, is this ornate façade. It was found when it was uncovered during restoration work. No one seems to know why it had been covered up.

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The sound of loud drumming drew us down a lane to view an unplanned treat. The drummers show another aspect of the unique African heritage in this part of Brazil.

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The heart of town, the Pelourinho, dates from the 17th through 19th centuries and is on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites.

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This is our last port before we reach the Amazon River, 1,800 miles away. We have four days and nights of sailing ahead of us. Yippee!

Posted by Swenigale 11:41 Archived in Brazil

ST. PATRICK'S DAY ON THE AMAZON

semi-overcast 81 °F

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In the late afternoon on Saturday, March 16th we entered the legendary Amazon River. It is 200 miles wide at the mouth! We knew we were in the right area when we saw the brown color of the water flowing into the sea. Some staggering statistics of this great waterway which flows through the region of Amazonia: Amazonia covers 1/3 of Brazil, or more than 2 ½ million square miles and supplies ¼ of the world’s fresh water. It is 4,080 miles long!

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On Sunday morning we stopped and anchored for several hours as the ship was cleared for entrance to the river and we picked up two River Pilots who will be with us for the next 6 days including 5 ports of call. I simply cannot believe we are here!.

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Happy Saint Patrick’s Day, everyone. By the way, check the Crystal Serenity’s ship web cams – nice chance to see what it looks like to be on a ship sailing on the Amazon River!

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We saw a few small houses scattered along the banks in the few hundred miles we traveled upriver, in from the ocean.

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Kids paddled out to get a look at us. I absolutely cannot believe we are here!

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Posted by Swenigale 12:16 Archived in Brazil

AMAZON RIVER

semi-overcast 85 °F

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Here are some random pictures of the shores of the Amazon taken as we sail toward our ports of call. This is the rainy season, and the waters that start in the Andes Mountains are at a very high level.

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People who live right near the water's edge sometimes build homes on stilts or move into towns during the high water season.

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River boats of all sizes connect these remote bits of human habitation.

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Amazonians travel on river boats, sleeping overnight in hammocks if the trip is long.

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Are we really here?

Posted by Swenigale 15:56 Archived in Brazil

ALTER do CHAO, BRAZIL

rain 77 °F

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This spectacular guy was clinging in the rain to the outside of one of the ship's windows.

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The river is so high that this resort community's beaches and playgrounds are underwater.

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We drove away from the river on Amazonian roads to Bosque Santa Lucia (Santa Lucia Woods) for a nature walk.

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The heavy rains of this morning made for a very muddy walk. The hiking poles were a good idea!

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If only I could remember all that we were told about the many varieties of trees and vines!

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This is a secondary forest but there are more than 400 species of trees and characteristics of the distant and more inaccessible virgin forest.

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This rubber tree shows how the latex is harvested -by making a slice in the trunk each night and then letting it drip into containers.

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A piece of this vine can be made into a tea that is good for kidney stones - I think.

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I do know that this pod contains brazil nuts - even with a machete this is a tough nut to crack, so to speak.

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The end of the tour involved walking to the bus in the suckiest mud I have ever seen! Everyone's shoes had what felt like 5 pounds of mud turned to cement stuck to them!

Posted by Swenigale 05:06 Archived in Brazil

PARINTINS, BRAZIL

semi-overcast 79 °F
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This riverside city of 50,000 is on an island in the longest archipelago of the mid-Amazon. Our tender ride to the floating port was piloted with care because of all the floating trees and vegetation in the river. This little bird is resting on a major pile-up of flood debris.

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Guess what? It's raining in the rainforest! No reason not to venture forth! Hasta has conquered a Caiman - possibly the only one we will see.

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A Pedi cab took us to the town's three major sites in the morning.

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After lunch on the ship we tendered back to shore - the orange ship's tender is tied to a riverboat which is moored at the dock. Step from the tender through the riverboat, and unto the pier.

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We were treated to a taste of Parintin's Boi-Bumba Festival.

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These are the main characters of the three day event which is held in June each year. The Festival is the "marquis event" for Brazilians - apparently more important than Rio's Carnaval.

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The Boi-Bumba (which means "Bull Dance") dance competition tells the story of an ancient legend about a cowboy, his woman, a bull, a farmer and a shaman.

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Families all align themselves with the blue team or the red team in friendly competition, even painting their houses blue or red. The winning team is the one judged to be the most spectacular and fun-loving.

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Our one hour glimpse of the energy and lavish costumes that characterize the competition exceeded our expectations!

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The Festival is held in the outdoor stadium, the Bumbodromo, which holds 50,000 and is shaped like a bull's head. Really.

Posted by Swenigale 12:06 Archived in Brazil

MANAUS, BRAZIL

sunny 90 °F
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Sunset on the Amazon - as we set sail for Manaus, which is roughly 1000 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, and will be our turn- around port.

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The black waters of the Rio Negro and the brown of the Amazon flow side by side. The city of Manaus is the capital of the State of Amazonas. It was "created by the rubber boom of the mid nineteenth century, when steam navigation opened up the Amazon to entrepreneurs and the social elite."

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An early morning tour brought us to the Manaus Zoo for a glimpse of some unique Amazonian wildlife.

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The Teatro Amazonas Opera House was "built at the height of the rubber boom at the turn of the 19th century. The Opera House took fifteen years to construct and epitomizes the splendor and elegance of a time when the city was one of the richest in the world."

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"Manaus manufactures diverse products, mostly consumer goods, and is a major river port, shipping products of the Amazon Basin.".

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Posted by Swenigale 13:56 Archived in Brazil

BOCA DE VALERIA, BRAZIL

sunny 90 °F

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There are 75 or so river people in this tiny town on the Valeria River. During the rainy season they welcome tourists to see where and how they live.

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We went out into the river with a boy and his boat from the village who showed us these giant water lilies and expertly guided us through the surrounding waters.

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Where the vegetation was thick in the river he cut the small engine and paddled.

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This was a wonderful adventure - no life jackets or safety lectures on this boat!

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The villagers appreciated our dollars and we were more than happy to give them. This boy is holding a sloth and her baby.

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The lives of the people revolve around fishing and farming and then also raising Manioc during the dry season.

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An even more amazing sight than these animals was seeing the pink dolphins that are found in this part of the amazon.- I mean they are bubblegum pink, for real! And no one was holding them for us to see! They don't surface long, so this is the best photo we have.

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Posted by Swenigale 11:26 Archived in Brazil

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